Svaneti: towers, glaciers & grandma's cheese
Mestia to Ushguli trek without crowds. Where to sleep for $18 and why you need to try kubdari at 2,200m.
Open guide →I'm Joe Passov — independent traveler, photographer and route nerd. No sponsored top-10s. Only slow itineraries, real budgets, hidden villages and trails I walked myself. Welcome to travelinjoepassov.com — my living field journal.
travelinjoepassov.com started in 2016 with a one-way ticket to Lisbon and a $2,300 backpack. Since then I've lived in 14 places, hitchhiked the Balkans, crossed the Sahara in a bush taxi, wintered in a lighthouse in Iceland and learned to make khinkali in Georgia.
This site is not an agency. No packages, no commissions. It's my personal atlas: every route tested on my own feet and wallet. I show prices, mistakes, scams to avoid and moments that made me cry.
Six obsessions from the last 3 years. Each has a full itinerary, GPX track, budget table and “what I’d do differently”. Click Stories to read the field notes.
Mestia to Ushguli trek without crowds. Where to sleep for $18 and why you need to try kubdari at 2,200m.
Open guide →Kallur lighthouse, Múlafossur and the bus that costs less than coffee. How to beat the weather.
Open guide →Berber villages, saffron tea and the Thursday souk in Asni. No camel tourist traps, promise.
Open guide →5am at Fushimi, kissaten coffee, and a guesthouse run by a 78-year-old jazz fan.
Open guide →Refugios vs tent, wind survival, and the empanada stand that saved my day 4.
Open guide →Alta Via 2 sections, rifugio etiquette, and sunrise at Tre Cime without 500 people.
Open guide →Copy my system. It works for a weekend in the Ardennes and for 3 months in South America.
Not sights — feelings. Fog? Bread? Silence? I pick 3 words and build around them.
One base for 4-5 nights + day trips by bus/train. No daily packing hell.
Spreadsheet with 4 columns: sleep, move, eat, magic. +15% for “yes!” moments.
30% of time unplanned. Best stories live there: weddings, breakdowns, invitations.
Shot on Fujifilm + iPhone. All places visited in 2024-2026. Hover — I’ll tell you where it is.
Fresh from the road. Every card opens as a full article with maps, budgets and honest fails.
Couchettes, breakfast, border sunrise and how to book for €49 instead of €149…
Coming soon →Hot dogs, pools, free camps and the gas station hack nobody tells you…
Coming soon →Borders, burek rankings and why I cried in Mostar…
Coming soon →GPS track • budget breakdown • where I slept & ate • 3 mistakes • what I'd skip • best season chart
Long guide every Sunday, photo essay every Wednesday, “Fails Friday” voice note monthly. 412 posts and counting.
“Used Joe's Svaneti guide in September. Saved €300 and ended up at a supra feast with a local family. Best week of my life.”
“Finally a blogger who shows prices! His Dolomites hut list is gold. No car, no stress, just mountains.”
“I plan all solo trips with Joe's method. Anchor & spokes changed everything. Felt safe even in rural Morocco.”
Short answers. For long ones — read the journal or write me.
Mid-30s wanderer, ex-IT project manager. I travel slow, photograph, write. Based in the Dolomites in summer, somewhere warm in winter. No team, no sponsors — just me and my notebook.
Average $55-75/day in Europe, $35-50 in Caucasus/Balkans/Morocco, $80-110 in Japan/Faroes. I always publish exact spending per trip — accommodation, transport, food.
Twice a year I invite 8 readers for a “slow week” — Svaneti in June, Atlas in October. No luxury, lots of walking and cooking together. Announcements in the Sunday letter.
7kg backpack: 40L pack, mirrorless camera, tent + quilt, water filter, eSIM + offline maps. Full list with weights is in the free template.
For personal blogs with credit — yes. For commercial use — write me via contact. I also sell prints to fund train tickets.
Pick ONE region, not 5 cities. Stay 4+ nights per base, use buses/trains, schedule one “empty day” per 3 days. Start with my Balkans or Dolomites guides.
No spam, no ads. One itinerary, one fail, one photo. 23,400 slow travelers already read it.
Or write directly: hello [at] travelinjoepassov.com • Base: Val Gardena, Italy • Replies on Sundays